{"id":63164,"date":"2021-08-15T23:58:50","date_gmt":"2021-08-15T22:58:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.podunavlje.info\/dir\/?p=63164"},"modified":"2021-10-24T01:19:41","modified_gmt":"2021-10-24T00:19:41","slug":"od-menzulhane-na-carigradskom-drumu-do-rajkove-kafane-i-dalje","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.podunavlje.info\/dir\/2021\/08\/15\/od-menzulhane-na-carigradskom-drumu-do-rajkove-kafane-i-dalje\/","title":{"rendered":"Od menzulhane na Carigradskom drumu, do Rajkove kafane i dalje\u2026"},"content":{"rendered":"

SMEDEREVO, 15. avgust 2021 \u2013 Nije tako \u010dest slu\u010daj da neka kafana bude progla\u0161ena za spomenik kulture, ako ba\u0161 nije u Skadarliji, a to se desilo objektu, izgra\u0111enom da bude menzulana iliti mehana, mnogo kasnije poznatom i kao Rajkova kafana u Saraorcima. Podignuta polovinom pretpro\u0161log veka, a i po onome \u0161to se tu doga\u0111alo posle, po svemu je to, da bude spomen kluture, zaslu\u017eila.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

U prethodnim nastavcima ovog serijala bavili smo se \u0161ta je to, pa i za\u0161to, ne\u0161to \u0161to treba videti i posetiti u Smederevu. Najvi\u0161e smo i\u0161li Dunavom i okolinom, stigli do mosta koji vodi iz i u grad. Bilo bi logi\u010dno da se s \u0107uprije vratimo i nastavimo obalom, recimo do Jugova, ali kako su na ovom sada aktuelni Ceca, Lukas i sli\u010dni, spontano smo odlu\u010dili da im jo\u0161 i mi ne pravimo besplatnu. \u0160to ne zna\u010di da ne\u0107e o Jugovu biti re\u010di, tom delu \u0107emo se vratiti kasnije u nekom od nastavka, sada idemo u unutra\u0161njost nekada\u0161nje op\u0161tine smederevske, ba\u0161 na njen kraj, granicu sa Velikom Planom, u pomenute Saraorce.<\/p>\n

Ne zna se ta\u010dno kada je ovo selo nastalo, pretpostavlja se pre XVIII veka, ali se zato zna ko ga je \u010dinio i kako je dobilo ime. Saraori su, naime, bili zidari, mogu\u0107e i oni koji su gradili Smederevsku tvr\u0111avu. Kasnije, kada su Turci zavladali ovim krajevima, me\u0161tani nekih sela u Srbiji, nare\u010deni saraori, bili su oslobo\u0111eni pla\u0107anja poreza jer su u\u010destvovali u javnim radovima, odr\u017eavali drumove, utvr\u0111enja i sli\u010dne objekte.<\/p>\n

Saraorci su stekli status varo\u0161ice 1896. godine, a od 1945. do 1964. tu je bilo sedi\u0161te op\u0161tine, kojoj su pripadali i Lozovik, Milo\u0161evac, Krnjevo i Trnov\u010de.<\/p>\n

Zna\u010daju sela, potonje varo\u0161ice, sigurno je doprinelo i to \u0161to se nalazila na Carigradskom drumu, jednoj od najva\u017enijih ako ne i najva\u017enijoj saobra\u0107ajnici u Srednjem veku u Srbiji. Uz put su pravljene menzulane, ili menzulhane, kako bi Turci rekli, posrbljeno i skra\u0107eno – mehane, a sam sklop ove re\u010di od druge dve – \u00a0menza – mesto gde se jede i han – preno\u0107i\u0161te, dovoljno govori \u0161ta je to bilo. Mehane su, po uredbi koju je turska administracija izdala 1862. morale da budu \u201evelike, svetle i zdrave zgrade\u201c, podignute po strogo propisanim planovima, a od lokacije na kojoj su se nalazile i broja soba koje su imale bile su i kategorisane. I tu dolazimo do predmeta na\u0161eg interesovanja; mehane na Carigradskom drumu u Saraorcima.<\/p>\n

Ni za nju se ne zna ta\u010dno godina kada je podignuta, ali se pretpostavlja da je u pitanju prva polovina XIX veka. Kao i sve druge drumske menuzlhane, slu\u017eila je za okrepljenje putnika i tatara \u2013 po\u0161tara na putu za Stambol. Tu su mogli da pojedu i popiju, da se odmore i konje promene. Ubrzo je ba\u0161 mehana postala sredi\u0161nje mesto budu\u0107e varo\u0161ice.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Mnogo kasnije, mehana \u0107e postati poznata kao \u201eKafana Mladenovi\u0107a\u201c, \u010duvene tamo\u0161nje porodice, koja je dala narodnog heroja \u2013 Svetu Mladenovi\u0107a i poznatog knji\u017eevnika, pesnika, esejistu i prevodioca \u2013 Tanasija Mladenovi\u0107a. Jo\u0161 kasnije, objekat \u0107e biti prepoznavan po imenu \u201eRajkova kafana\u201c, po tada\u0161njem gazdi \u2013 Rajku Suboti\u0107u. Bilo je to mesto \u010duveno po dobrom jelu, odlazilo se tu na poslovne i porodi\u010dne ru\u010dkove, u vreme kada gorivo nije bilo neka va\u017ena stavka u ku\u0107nim bud\u017eetima, ba\u0161 kao \u0161to je i obedovanje u kafani bilo normalna pojava. A bogami odlazilo se i na ve\u010dere – sa \u0161valerkama, daleko od radoznalih o\u010diju Smedereva, Plane i Palanke, pa i Beograda i drugih gradova, ali to je ve\u0107 neka druga pri\u010da.<\/p>\n

Onda, posle toga, dolazi onaj neslavni deo, kada je nekada\u0161nja mehana a potonja kafana, na razme\u0111u vekova, kao i mnogo \u0161ta u ovoj dr\u017eavi, propadala. Nije mnogo pomoglo ni \u0161to je, sasvim opravdano, kako je ve\u0107 re\u010deno,1981. progla\u0161ena za spomenik kulture. Samo desetak kilometara dalje, drumska mehana u Osipaonici, tako\u0111e nekada \u010duvena \u201e\u0160teri\u0107eva kafana\u201c, do\u017eivela je neslavnu sudbinu kad je polovina zgrade sru\u0161ena, mada je i ona imala taj status – spomenika kulture. Zbog toga ne \u010dudi \u0161to je ljude iz Regionalnog zavoda za za\u0161titu spomenika kulture obradovalo kada su im se 2012. javili novi vlasnici sa zahtevom da im se izdaju uslovi za obnovu zgrade. Naravno, ni to nije i\u0161lo lako i na obostrano zadovoljstvo, pone\u0161to je promenjeno, \u0161to se stru\u010dnjacima Zavoda ba\u0161 i nije dopalo, vlasnicima su se pa uslovi Zavoda \u010dinili odve\u0107 rigidnim. U svakom slu\u010daju objekat je obnovljen, promenjeno mu je ime, sada je to \u201eMedin konak\u201c. Dalo bi se raspravljati, koliko je to marketin\u0161ki pametan potez, da ne\u010demu \u0161to je decenijama bilo poznato pod jednim nazivom, koji je bio sinonim za dobru kafanu, prakti\u010dno brend, kako bi se to dana\u0161njim jezikom reklo, promenite ime, ali…<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Objekat je, kako bi re\u010deno, uz mnogo muke i dosta ulo\u017eenog novca, obnovljen, u nekim delovima na u\u017eas ljudi iz Zavoda za za\u0161titu spomenika, ali ipak i uz njihovu zahvalnost \u0161to je sa\u010duvan od propasti, da ga nije stigla zlehuda sudba pomenutog sli\u010dnog u Osipaonici.<\/p>\n

\"\"Na \u017ealost, nije sa\u010duvana i mermerna tabla koja je na njemu bila, a koju je 1974. tu postavljena u znak se\u0107anja na Mladenovi\u0107e, ali i na \u010dinjenicu da je tu \u201eformirana prva \u0107elija KPJ u Saraorcima\u201c . Sada\u0161nja vlasnica ka\u017ee da su tablu zatekli razbijenu, prakti\u010dno u par\u010di\u0107ima. Iznad ulaza u sada\u0161nji \u201eMedin konak\u201c, nekada\u0161nju mehanu i kafanu, stoji natpis \u201eIzdavanje sale za veselja i proslave\u201c. To mu je sada\u0161nja svrha, ali vlasnica najavljuje da \u0107e vrlo brzo, za mesec-dva, biti vra\u0107ena stara namena, da \u0107e jedan deo objekta ba\u0161 tako raditi \u2013 kao kafana.<\/p>\n

Za tekst kori\u0161\u0107eni podaci iz \u201e\u010cetiri mehane \u2013 \u010detiri spomenika kulture\u201c Veroljuba Rankovi\u0107a<\/em><\/p>\n

Foto: Regionalni zavod za za\u0161titu spomenika kulture, podunavlje.info\u00a9<\/em><\/p>\n

Do Smedereva se mo\u017ee sti\u0107i na vi\u0161e na\u010dina. Drumom iz pravca jugoistoka auto-putem E-75, isto i severozapada, iz pravca Beograda, a tu vam je na raspolaganju i stari put od Beograda preko Grocke. Smederevo ima trostruku vezu s auto-putem; preko izlaza kod Vodnja, Ralje i Kolara. Sa severa, drumom dolazi se preko mosta na Dunavu, poslednjeg prelaza preko ove reke, kada se pro\u0111e Beograd, sve do \u0110erdapa. Autobusom iz tog pravca na raspolaganju vam je mno\u0161tvo polazaka, \u010diji raspored mo\u017eete da vidite <\/em><\/strong>ovde<\/strong><\/a>. <\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Pravac\u00a0prema\u00a0Po\u017earevcu,\u00a0iz koga jedino mo\u017eete <\/em><\/strong>vozom<\/strong><\/a> do\u0107i u Smederevo, istovremeno\u00a0je\u00a0i\u00a0veza\u00a0sa\u00a0gradovima\u00a0na\u00a0Dunavu\u00a0nizvodno\u00a0od\u00a0u\u0161\u0107a\u00a0Velike\u00a0Morave\u00a0(Veliko\u00a0Gradi\u0161te,\u00a0Golubac)\u00a0i\u00a0sa\u00a0podru\u010djem\u00a0\u0110erdapa.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Smederevo se nalazi i na me\u0111unarodnoj Dunavskoj biciklisti\u010dkoj ruti <\/em><\/strong>Euro Velo 6<\/strong><\/a>, na trasi koja vodi od Atlantika sve do Crnog mora. Na internet stranici The Danube Regional Development Project mogu se prona\u0107i detaljne informacije o Dunavskoj biciklisti\u010dkoj ruti, a u sekciji 5 opis dela rute,<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Na kraju, za one sklone avanturi, tu je i koridor 7 – Dunav, na kome, na\u017ealost, jo\u0161 nema komercijalnog putni\u010dkog prevoza do Smedereva, ali tu su uvek alternativni na\u010din. Pored Smedereva Dunav proti\u010de u du\u017eini od 25 kilometara, od Ore\u0161ca na 1.124 do u\u0161\u0107a Morave na 1.103 kilometru Dunava. \u00a0Ova reka pored Smedereva te\u010de pravcem zapad-istok, od Ore\u0161ca do Kuli\u010da,sa \u0161irinom korita od 800 do 1.300 metara. Kod Smederevske tvr\u0111ave je re\u010dnim ostrvima razdvojen u tri kraka od kojih je desni naj\u0161iri i najdublji.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Projekat \u201ePutokazi \u2013 do Smedereva i u Smederevu\u201c sufinansiran je iz bud\u017eeta Grada Smedereva, a stavovi izneti u podr\u017eanom medijskom projektu nu\u017eno ne izra\u017eavaju stavove organa koji je dodelio sredstva.<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

SMEDEREVO, 15. avgust 2021 \u2013 Nije tako \u010dest slu\u010daj da neka kafana bude progla\u0161ena za spomenik kulture, ako ba\u0161 nije u Skadarliji, a to se desilo objektu, izgra\u0111enom da bude menzulana iliti mehana, mnogo kasnije poznatom i kao Rajkova kafana u Saraorcima. Podignuta polovinom pretpro\u0161log veka, a i po onome \u0161to se tu doga\u0111alo posle, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":63165,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7222,7221,13999,75],"tags":[14519,9957,14516,14517,14518,656,12262],"class_list":["post-63164","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-najnovije","category-projekti","category-putokazi-do-smedereva-i-u-smederevu","category-smederevo","tag-carigradski-drum","tag-kafana","tag-mehana","tag-menzulhana","tag-rajkova-kafana","tag-regionalni-zavod-za-zastitu-spomenika-kulture","tag-sarorci"],"yoast_head":"\nOd menzulhane na Carigradskom drumu, do Rajkove kafane i dalje\u2026 -<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.podunavlje.info\/dir\/2021\/08\/15\/od-menzulhane-na-carigradskom-drumu-do-rajkove-kafane-i-dalje\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"sr_RS\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Od menzulhane na Carigradskom drumu, do Rajkove kafane i dalje\u2026 -\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"SMEDEREVO, 15. avgust 2021 \u2013 Nije tako \u010dest slu\u010daj da neka kafana bude progla\u0161ena za spomenik kulture, ako ba\u0161 nije u Skadarliji, a to se desilo objektu, izgra\u0111enom da bude menzulana iliti mehana, mnogo kasnije poznatom i kao Rajkova kafana u Saraorcima. 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